2011 AYUP Lights

AYUPs upgraded:I just got my 2007/2008 Ayup's upgraded and opted for
an optic swap out from Medium to Allrounder 200% increase(arguable increase although the old optic was inefficient)

Bar LightLED upgrade 200%, Power upgrade 40% increase.

This has produced a very noticeable increase in light output and beams pattern.

The old medium light was held back by the medium(2007 flood) lens, a honeycombed lens spread the light out inefficiently robbing precious lumes. The new allrounder (flood) spread the light without robbing lumen output. As stated above this alone upped efficiency by 200%. In comparison to my Cygolight gives far more light (25-30%). In short the beam throws longer and spreads wider.

General thoughtsI like riding with a flood on my bars.This satisfies my peripheral vision whilst looking 30m up the track. The Allrounder beam is EVEN and fades out evenly on the sides. The upgraded Narrow on my helmet takes care of obtacles up the trail. Whilst this sounds ideal it does have a shortfall. Whilst traversing tight trails, hairpins or techy and turny singletrack your bar light can become redundant as it isn't facing the trail your riding. Then if you look down your narrow helmet light becomes too tight effectively creating a 1m diameter hot spot on the ground in front of you. What needs to be remembered is this often happens for split secound only. Offsetting your beams one in front of the other will spread the beam out slightly more (and is my preference) as it helps in this scenario and gives a better foward spread when riding straighter trails.
I honestly think an Intermediate beam combined with the narrow (in the one unit would solve this) but may hinder foward light progression, which is currently awesome.

Headlight
I upgraded my Intermediete lens to a narrow beam. (More of a spot beam)
I had 2007/2008 Ayup's and opted for:LED upgrade 200% increase, Power upgrade 40%

This is a great spot beam, with a very long throw.It is narrow and IMHO will require a flood lens in the foreground. This is where 2 lights excel, thanks AYUP!

Comparison
Compare this to a Topeak HID (600 lumen claimed)where the Ayup throws longer and brighter around 50% brighter!. The HID although a noticeably less bright does give less of a spot and fades out gradually great for just one light and better as the light doesn't dapple as stated above, when riding tight twisty trails. Of course the major let downs are weight a hefty light that you feel on your helmet with an anchor as a battery. This thing is easily 6 times the weight of the complete AYUP kit.

Compared to a Magicshine P7 the Ayup equalls or just betters the light throw by about 15%. The P7 has more of a flood though which is great as your sole light source. These lights have their merits and are great if stack height on your helmet isn't an issue as the light does protrude, being 3 times the height of an AYUP. This of course shouldn't be an issue if you are under 6 foot tall.
The AYUP narrow is truelly narrow but offsetting the lights with the bar light gives great depth and works very well with the wide beam. "Hoarses for courses"

Benefits
The biggest AYUP benefits are low weight (less then a third of lights compared too), much smaller batteries, low stack height, off helmet. Easy helmet mounting (gecko mounts simply un attach from strong velcro feet) . Now with the benefit of very good optics and lumens! These benefits far out way the dappled light when riding twisty trails. Due to the benefits these lights would be a racers choice!

Did I mention a 2 day upgrade,turn around! Wow!
PS There is no way a Magicshine is 900 lumens as claimed, maybe closer to 500-600 lumens.Its hard to tell as the beam has slightly less throw then the narrow AYUP but spreads more.

Hope this helps others thinking of upgrading their optics.

Chain lube 'The One'

'The One' homebrew wax lube
This recipee is free for private use. All rights reserved. Copyright 16/4/2009.



Over the last 12 months I have had dozens of PM's about this recipe originally posted on the Rotorburn forum, so have decided to post an update and some explanations on mountain bike chain lubrication challenges, home made ingredients required and the reasons these ingredients are used.


I will endeavour to make some batches and sell them at a low cost from here to further market test and receive feedback.

Anticipated date: January 2012, anticipated cost: 75ml for $5 [Will update once available]
Please let me know how you go with the outcome of this lubricant, good or bad!

Skip to the end for the philosophy and recipe!
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Background: OK I've mucked around with different chain lubes, oil based, wax based synthetic, organic lubes etc I have always thought they just dont last in really dusty environments, become expensive over time (what you get per dollar) and as such have been experimenting with home made bike lubes.

Reasoning: There is no doubt that my MTB Chain lubricant 'The One' as I have named it, is far superior (based on cost, longevity, chain quietness and ingredient costs) to the other big brands.
All lubricants work on three principles lubrication being 1a and 1b
1a: (lubrication) protect against wear and
1b: (lubrication) keep moving parts apart and
2. adhesion ability (the lubricant must be designed with it's challenges in mind)

MTB Bike chain challenges:longevity, we all want a lube to last all week but that simply isn't going to happen. Put simply foreign materials namely, water, dirt, clay etc will either ash the chain lube away or contaminate it enough to stop working effectively.

Market trends / Smart business:
The bottom line is to find a lube created to minimise the onset of its challenges
Oil based lubes are naturally adhesive they stick to things with different degrees of effectiveness (oil viscosity), additives may be used to increase adhesion, teflon and chemicals (natural or synthetic) that cause molecular attraction, being most common. Pros: Naturally water resistant Cons: Break down quickly due to dirt.
Thats why most bike shops will say oil based lubes are best for wet weather riding. Unfortuantely wet weather in mountain biking means mud and it's the mud that will remove the oil lubricants very fast. Usually 5-15km's when riding mtb when it becomes noticeable.

Wax based lubes, repel water well and create a barrier against sand and mud. Wax requires a carrier usually a solvent that brings the wax to liquid form to apply, the solvent then evaporates. Parrofin wax itself has adhesive qualities but will break down under severe conditions commonly ongoing use, where it will dry break down. Pros:Naturally water resistant, with a solvent also cleans and lubricates Cons: breaks down when dry through normal use.
Beeswax is naturall very adhesive, bees glue their chambers with beeswax! and it can dry solid yet still be soft, combined it the correct ratio with parrafin wax it will create a best solution that will lubricate without caking up.

Wax vs Oils lubricants: Ultimately marketing, image, value and price will play the biggest part what lubricants are perceived as the best. However real world testing under the same conditions will eventually highlight standout lubricants. The current standout lubricants are based on longevity. With the increase of endurance events and the average rider participating in these more often shortfalls in lubricants will emerge.

PTFE / Teflon:Basically a lubricant unless it is bonded.Pros:Excellent chemical and heat resistance, Lowest co-efficient of friction Cons: Unbonded PTFE may possibly be carcinogenic, Very toxic, Very expensive.Debated effectiveness how much is required to be effective in liquid form Cons far out way Pro's. Small amounts may be added for marketing reasons only!

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My lubricant philosophy:
My take on lubes is that they should take up room between the chain and drive chain to keep the dirt out, be long lasting, not build up, be a quiet and protect the drivetrain.


Some lubes claim hundreds of k's between lubes, crazy stuff! If your sane you will relube your chain between epic rides, after all dirt is going to be there and dirt grinds down your chain and drivetrain faster than a clean drivetrain.



Recipe:
What you need: will make about 2 litres of lube

Wax and Grease remover 1litre
Paraffin wax 250gram
Bees Wax block 150 gram
Cheese Grater or similar
Old empty bottle of lube $free

For enduro rides I mix:
20% grated Paraffin wax
10% grated Bees wax
70% Wax and grease remover
(The wax will liquify over time). The trick is to add wax and grease remover so that the mixture is runny like a moisturiser. This will enable easy application and enable the solvent carriers to evaporate. You have to remember that not all wax and grease removers are the same and whilst they will be similar in chemical composition you may require more to create the correct consistency)
Shake it up it and apply after your last ride wipe excess off gently. For best results apply after your last ride this will enable the wax to dry ready for your next big ride!

I reckon this recipe will out perform any lube on the market, will cost you a fraction and most importantly will keep you sane on your next epic ride.

Enjoy!